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Life on the island of Sri Lanka is filled with spicy possibilities. Any home you enter during mealtimes will envelop you with the aromatic warmth of spices. Food is prepared in each home to suit their taste in spices. Some may like it hot and others mild. Spices make up the base for curries and even desserts. Your taste buds tingle with anticipation as you inhale the different aromas. Spices are made into powders, pastes, and infused liquids that are then used in cooking as has been done for centuries and handed down from one generation to the next. Spices are a part of life itself. It is used in Ayurvedic and Hela medicines. Many a handy remedy at home uses spices. From ancient times they have been used in the manufacture of cosmetics and preservatives. Artists have used them in numerous ways and even embalming methods were known to have employed them since time immemorial.
History of the spice trade
Many a maritime trader that plied the Indian Ocean took advantage of Trade Winds. They navigated the high seas collecting a variety of cargo from each port. Greeks, Romans, Chinese, and Arabs knew the Indian Ocean well. The island of Sri Lanka was known to them as Taprobane, Serendib, Ceylao, and Ceylon. The islanders traded spices and exchanged them for silks and other goods traded by these vendors. The teardrop-shaped little island off the tip of South India was a destination sought after for its high-quality spices. The seafarers approaching the island could smell the cinnamon branches stacked along the coastal belt. For them, the mystique of the island was interwoven with spices.
Before the 16th century, there was a great demand for spices from the East in the European capitals that had learned to use the exotic tastes of spices. Since that time there was no turning back. The demand for spices has been increasing ever since. The spices reached the European capitals via Constantinople. The two main spices the world was hooked on were cinnamon and pepper. These spices had captured the imagination and hearts of the stylish upper class in the European capitals.
The spices produced on the island of Sri Lanka (Ceylon then) fetched a higher price mainly due to their excellent quality in comparison with the other countries in the region. The taste of peppercorns is established by their content of piperine. Sri Lankan pepper contains 12% piperine when compared with pepper from other regions which only contains 6%. The Sri Lankan peppercorns certainly pack a bigger punch and are more aromatic. Cinnamon produced in Sri Lanka is known as true cinnamon while cinnamon from other countries in the region is known as cassia. Cinnamon of Sri Lanka origin is light in color and comes in thin quills that give out a refined taste and flavor.
During the 16th century, the Portuguese ended the monopoly of the Arabs and other traders. The spice trade was taken over by the Portuguese. They took over the island’s coastal areas famed for spices. Then, in the 18th century, the Portuguese were replaced by the Dutch. The Dutch were more systematic in their approach to the spice trade. They went so far as to establish spice gardens for their exclusive use. In 1815, the British took over the entire island of Ceylon and ensured their dominance over all trade conducted on the island. The spice trade was taken over in no time.
Types of Sri Lankan spices
Sri Lanka has a wide range of spices coveted for their quality. Flavors are elevated, colors are enhanced and aromas are intensified. The climatic conditions on the island are the main reason for quality spices. These spices are different from herbs. Flowers, orchid pods, leaves, outer covers, barks, trees, shrubs, vines, and seeds are dried and processed so that they can be used for cooking, perfumes, art, and other purposes. The lower parts of the hill country on the island offer the best climate for growing spices; a mixture of hot and cold weather that creates early morning mist. The districts of Kandy and Matale and surrounding areas have a concentration of spice gardens. True cinnamon and high-quality pepper are the two spices that Sri Lanka is famed for.
In addition, many other spices grow freely almost everywhere on the island. These are cardamoms, cloves, nutmeg and mace, turmeric, ginger, goraka (gamboge), and vanilla. These spices come in the form of dried pods, seeds, powders, quills, scrapings, dried flowers, and fruit. Apart from the spices, essential oils are also produced using them. These oils are highly fragrant and are used in perfumes, medicine, potpourri, insect repellents, incense products, candles, spa products, and food. The most popular oils are cinnamon oil, cardamom oil, clove oil, pepper oil, nutmeg oil, and lemongrass oil. Spices are a part of daily life in Sri Lanka. They touch all aspects of life here in addition to being a source of income.
Pepper-Gammiris
A dried berry, this is perhaps the most sought-after spice in the world. Sri Lanka produces the best quality pepper and uses it extensively in cooking as well as in medication. The same berry is processed in different ways to obtain black pepper, white pepper, green pepper, and red pepper. Pepper is also graded and sold.
Pepper grows in clusters of berries that are green. When they are ripe they turn red. The black peppercorns are obtained by drying the green berries with the outer skin. White pepper is obtained by cleaning the outer skin of the ripe red berries and then drying the inner white seeds. White peppercorns are milder than black pepper. Green peppercorns are used to bring a fresh yet mild flavor to food. You can find these preserved in brine.
Cinnamon –Kurundu
Sri Lanka produces Cinnamomum verum or Ceylon Cinnamon. This perennial evergreen plant is also known as True Cinnamon. This is the second most valued spice in the world after pepper. Sri Lanka produces about 90% of the world’s supply of the finest cinnamon. Ceylon cinnamon has a refined taste and fragrance. The bark of the cinnamon tree is harvested and dried to form quills that are manufactured by hand. These quills are then graded and sold according to quality. Quills, quillings, featherings, and chips are separated for each grade and kind. Cinnamon is used widely both in sweet and savory dishes. Rice, curries, chutneys, beverages, home remedies for stomach aches, and all types of sweetmeats are made with the infused flavor and aroma of cinnamon.
Cardamoms-Enasal
Cardamoms are small green pods with little black seeds inside. Cardamom is highly aromatic and is the world’s most expensive spice after vanilla and saffron. The spice is used in both savory and sweet dishes. The flavor of cardamoms is unmistakable and adds a warm, sensuous, and exotic touch to food, spa products, perfumes, and medicines. Many of the local dishes use this spice in Sri Lanka together with other spices that complement its flavor.
The intensity of the flavor is controlled by using the pod whole or by splitting the pod or grinding it to a powder. The flavor is used in eastern cuisine and in the west it is incorporated into liqueurs, coffee, cakes, and biscuits.
Cloves-Karabunatti
This is another spice widely used in Sri Lanka. Cloves are used in both savory and sweet cuisine. The clove is the unopened bud that is dried from the evergreen clove tree. Cloves are used for other purposes from manufacturing toothpaste to medicines, perfumes, and spa products. The flavor has to be balanced well to get the best results. This spice is often used in combination with other spices for best results.
Nutmeg
Nutmeg is another perennial evergreen tree that has been sought after by the spice traders plying the Silk Road. Imparting a distinct flavor, it has been used in eastern cuisine and medicine. It also plays a major role in western cuisine in roasts and sauces. Certain eastern dishes use this spice exclusively for flavor.
The nutmeg fruit is light green in color e you find the seed covered in bright red lacy fronds. These fronds are dried to make mace. The seed is cracked open to reveal what we know as nutmeg. This woody inner seed is grated to use as needed.
Mace
The outer covering of the nutmeg seed is called mace. This is especially important in rice dishes and has a delicate flavor similar to nutmeg. The flavor is sweet and warm and thus ideal for sweets. It is also used in roasting meat. This also imparts color in addition to the flavor.
Vanilla
This perhaps is the most famous spice in the world of cuisine. Vanilla greatly enhances the flavor profile of any dish it is used in. It is the bean of an orchid plant. Vanilla has invaded not only the kitchens of Sri Lanka but also the spheres of medicine, spa products, perfumes, and candles. This is a commercial crop in Sri Lanka.
Corriander-Kottamalli
This is a spice that is used in all curry preparation in Sri Lanka as well as India. The base of a good curry depends on the quality of coriander which is also a staple in Ayurvedic treatment. The dried seeds are tan in color and similar in size to peppercorns. The pungent powder is used mostly together with other spices in curries in its unroasted form or roasted.
Cummin-Suduru
This is used in curries together with coriander in different combinations according to the recipe. It is also used alone in many sweets and has a pungent taste although it rarely overpowers other spices.
Sweet cumin-Maduru
This is the other spice that is used in curry powder together with coriander and cumin. This has a distinct taste and has to be used with discretion. The combination of curry powder consists of around six parts of coriander powder to four parts of cumin powder and one part of sweet cumin for an ideal combination of flavors. Used in certain sweets.
Turmeric-Kaha
This is the main ingredient that gives Sri Lankan dishes their warm yellow coloring. It is always used in curries and is a well-known antiseptic. The plant is similar to that of ginger and the bulb is dried and powdered for use. Curries made without turmeric do not have a vibrant look about them. It is also used extensively both in medicines and cosmetics.
Fenugreek-Uluhal
This is a small tan-colored seed that lends a distinct flavor to curries. It is always used with curries cooked with coconut milk. The aroma wafts invitingly from the kitchen when this spice is used in curries.
Lemongrass-Sera
Lemongrass gives out a highly pungent lemony flavor and aroma to dishes. It is widely used throughout Asia and Sri Lanka is no exception. Fish, shellfish, soups, and meats are cooked with lemongrass for a distinct flavor.
Gamboge-Goraka
This is a dried fruit that is black and lends a highly sour taste to dishes. It is used mainly with pepper when traditionally cooking fish. It can be added directly or as a paste. Although not used with vegetables as a rule some are cooked with this. Derived from the acidic fruit of this evergreen tree gives the sour element to curries. It is used most often in fish and other seafood preparations.
Tamarind-Siyambala
This is also a dried fruit of a tree. It also comes in a paste. The taste is sour and is used widely in curries, beverages, and even in certain sweets. Together with a touch of sugar, this gives an extremely appetizing flavor to curries. It is also used in medications.
Curry leaves-Karapincha
This is a leaf of a tree and is always added for flavor and fragrance to rice and curries. It is similar to bay leaves although smaller in size. A few leaves in curries are a must in all Sri Lankan dishes of vegetables, fish, or meat. It is also used widely in Ayurvedic preparations and is recommended for longevity.
Green chillies-Amumiris
This is used in its fresh green form for best results. It is usually added to all Sri Lankan curries and helps to flavor the food as well as depart a sense of heat without being too corrosive. However, should be used moderately if unfamiliar with the flavor as it can be too hot for some. Green chilies are used whole or diced to different sizes according to the dish as Sri Lankans love to bite into green chilies in their food. There are many varieties of green chillies with varying degrees of spiciness or ‘heat’ index.
Red chilies are the dried red variation of the ripe green chili. The flavor and taste of this are used in most curry recipes in Sri Lanka. The taste is determined according to each family’s palate and some use more heat than others. All Sri Lankan kitchens have chili powder both roasted and unroasted, chili flakes, and whole dried chilies. The use of these different forms is determined according to the curry being made.
