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I left Colombo, the commercial capital of Sri Lanka, well before the morning rush hour and its daily quota of dust and heat in search of the magical gardens that I had heard so much about. I was going in search of the garden created by a person who had poured his soul into the garden along with his knowledge and style. I wanted to experience it myself even though I was not sure what to expect. Quite often when a place is described with superlatives what you find when you reach it can be disappointing. I hoped this will not be the case with the so-called magical gardens of Lunganga.
About an hour after leaving Colombo I reached Bentota which is roughly 60km away to the south along the western coastline of the island. To access Lunuganga Estate I traveled a further 3km along a dirt road that made its way through the occasional jungle and numerous paddy fields gently swaying in the breeze. The Lunuganga Estate borders Dedduwa Lake and as I stood there I could glimpse the Indian Ocean at a distance. The lake, the lush greenery, and the ocean all contribute to the feeling of magic in the air.
I stood there taking in the sheer expanse of open space and different shades of light engulfed in a peaceful ambiance. The old house and stylized garden integrated seamlessly with the jungle around to make a magical garden. The more you saw of the garden the more you admired its rustic elegance and natural contours. I walked around in appreciation of every aspect of this work of art for it was indeed a work of art created by one man and lovingly nurtured over more than 50 years.
Geoffery Bawa, the most influential and visionary architect of Sri Lanka was the man behind this work of art which he created as his private haven. His love for nature as well as for art and architecture shone through the length and breadth of this magical garden which combined the natural terrain of the jungle with simple order in such a way that this 25-acre property by the Dedduwa lake became a gardening masterpiece that retained its natural roots.
During the Dutch rule of Sri Lanka, this estate was a cinnamon plantation. Years later, when the British took over the island from the Dutch it was transformed into a rubber plantation. Later, it fell into neglect and was claimed by the surrounding jungle covering it in lush greenery and vegetation of all types. It was this estate in a neglected state that was bought by Geoffery Bawa in 1946. He may have seen the full potential of this land with his experience in both art and architecture.
The garden is open daily to tourists and the public from 9 am to 5 pm. On request, guides are available for tours of the property. There is a restaurant that serves meals and as I wanted to explore the property fully, I arranged for my lunch as well as tea. Six suites can be booked for longer stays. They are all decorated in a minimalist fashion using black and white with touches of unexpected color that make the visual impact rather stunning and yet perfectly pleasing at the same time. The elegant mixture of color with an eclectic mixture of antique, contemporary, and modern furniture brings out the unmistakable style of Bawa.
The tour of the gardens is kicked off by the Entrance Court as the main entrance to the house was called. The Porte Cochere and the Glass Room above were additions that were made in the 1980s. This replaced the coconut leaf thatched carport. From here you step onto the gardens.
The first thing that you are made aware of is how trees have been allowed to grow freely within the garden, creating their tropical lines and enhancing the garden’s landscape. A short walk from this area brings you to the Red Terrace. Red Terrace gains the name from the coloration of the soil. The red laterite soil is made of a rock and soil combination rich in iron and aluminum. The rusty red coloration is formed in hot and wet tropical areas and can be often seen in the dry zones of Sri Lanka. The natural rusty red colors of the laterite soil contrast well with the green foliage on either side of the terrace.
As you advance from this area, the change in the view is dramatic when your eyes feast on the Water Garden below and the lake beyond. This is one of the most cherished views of the property that has been a favorite of its creator, Geoffery Bawa. The tranquility that pervades the air as you are isolated amid this jungle cum garden is remarkable. Going past this, one can see how the garden has been designed to please the eye allowing vistas of greenery to unravel in front of you broken with the occasional statue or pot as the focal point.
As you proceed on the tour of the garden, you will come to the Yellow Courtyard. The name is derived from the ochre color in which the walls are painted in this area. The ochre color blends well with the surroundings without having a jarring effect upon the onlooker. The eastern end of the Water Garden is dominated by the Black Pavillion. The Black Pavillion located at the Butterfly Pond of the eastern end of the Water Garden is a stone bench from where one can see the Broad Walk in addition to the three levels of the Sculpture Galleries and the Red Terrace.
The Broad Walk is located at the base of the main hill upon which the house is built. It is situated next to the base of the northern terraced gardens. To the west of this area is the Water Gate which is the name given to the point where the water meets the garden. It is from this point that numerous excursions depart to the two islets on the Dedduwa Lake known as Appaladuwa and Hoduwa.
Works of art and a collection of sculptures dot the garden. These are from different cultures and are placed strategically to enhance their surroundings. They blend well with the gardens making the whole of it more harmonious to the beholder. These pieces of art comprise sculptures echoing similarities with English and European gardens. There is another interesting feature in the garden. This is the Plain of Jars so named for the numerous Ming Jars placed in the garden. These jars have the mesmerizing effect of bringing the entire garden to life while enhancing the jungle effect. They also serve as focal points for the eyes of the onlooker to feast on.
The Cinnamon Hill House is built on the former cinnamon plantation. The style adopted by Geoffery Bawa reflects the love he had for wide open spaces. The ambiance indoors complimented the outdoor spaces in the way light and air danced through the length and breadth of the house. The end of Cinnamon Hill gives way to the verandah which leads to the Gate House. The Southern Terrace and the Western Terrace make up the gardens of the rest of the surrounding areas.
The talent that Geoffery Bawa exhibited when transforming the property showcased his knowledge acquired during his wide travels throughout the world and his appreciation for aesthetic beauty. He favofavored minimalist style created with simple yet harmonious lines, natural vegetation, and black and white interiors that came to be known as “tropical modernism”. He studied ancient cities of Lanka as well as Buddhist temples and Italian Renaissance-inspired gardens.
For Bawa, Lunuganga was a living project of art. He always strived to blend into the jungle whilst styling any area that would be too prominent or out of place. He would at times lower a ridge or grow a hedge. A tree would be allowed to grow freely spreading throughout space and then he would place a bench or make a sitting area to take in the sheer beauty of nature. This is a place created to be soothing to the onlooker.
Lunuganga was created to be a tropical Eden where trees, shrubs, water features, and garden ornamentation came together seamlessly to make an intoxicating experience. Elements of English landscaping, Japanese gardens, and Ranaissance gardens of Italy were blended beautifully with the water gardens of ancient Sri Lanka.
A trip to Sri Lanka is not complete without a visit to this magical home of the great architect known as the father of ‘Asian-inspired architecture’.
